Buen Camino.
Those two words meant so many things to me along the Camino
and even now they resonate deep. Directly translated they mean ‘Good Way’ and
they’re said to peregrinos (pilgrims) to wish them luck, good fortune, safe
travels on their journey. It’ll take too long to make this a tutorial as to
what the Camino is, and it’s too hard to explain. The best way to understand is
to walk it yourself. You walk the camino for yourself, and no one else.
I have a friend, Amanda, who walked the Camino Frances from
St. Jean Pied-de-Port to Santiago last year. It struck a chord with me, it
sounded like something I was meant to do. Then once she first mentioned it I
heard it everywhere and I knew I had to.
The Camino won’t give you what you want, it gives you what
you need. You might not even realise what that is until it hits you in the
face. Walking through the blazing sun with no shade, endless wheat fields with
blisters and sore tendons I realised what my issue was. After that I didn’t
have nightmares and I wasn’t scared. The people I met along the way helped me
in so many ways in realising why I was really there and how best to overcome
these problems. They each addressed different parts of me, helped bring out the
good, test the bad, clear the haziness and show me the paths laid out in front
of me.
Tim and Wendy. Mel. Kerry. Gina. Joe. Lucas. Neil. Pricilla
and Casey. Rich and Joe. Cassandra. Ben (HOWQUA – his stage name, look him up).
Chunghee. Drew. Andrèas. James.
Alex.
Alex deserves a whole blog to herself. I met her on day one,
we came together after a week of walking and didn’t leave the other’s side. We
laughed together, cried together, struggled up every hill and through every
dull city-outskirts. She challenged my thinking, my heart, helped me push my
body further. I would not be the person I am now at the end of it all without
her. Her strength gave me strength. She also gave me gummy bears. Oh the Haribo
bears were just so addictive, the best flavours being white and red but you’d
always get a bag full of yellow. Yellow?! Who wants that much lemon? We’d keep
a packet in our pocket and when we felt really low or grumpy we’d have one or
two. On one occasion Alex felt so yuck that she ate half a packet, and then
felt even worse. She was a lot faster than me that day and I found her lying on
a bench trying to recover from her gummy bear OD. I learnt my lesson from
seeing her like that.
Day One I was excited and scared for all that lay ahead. I
was right to be scared, well, maybe not scared, no one died (it’s happened
before, and people have become lost) but it was hard. Really hard. This is not
just a walk. Day one is over the
Pyrenees and that day it was cold with strong winds, rain and even hail. I had
to put my cap on to protect my head. I put on my long sleeve top and my rain
jacket with the wind blowing it in every direction which didn’t help me and had
to open up my backpack rain cover which I had never used before. All I could do
was laugh. Stand there in the pouring rain absolutely drenched and laugh.
They say that the camino is broken up into 3 phases; body,
mind and soul, and that the three regions of the walk represent those phases.
From St. Jean to Burgos is loosely linked to challenging the body. Burgos to
Leon, the Meseta, challenges the mind. From Leon onwards is for the
soul/spirit.
I didn’t train for this. I decided to walk the Camino just a
few months before I left so all my spare time was spent working overtime so I
could go. Having said that, my body had been pushed beyond anything it had done
before. In the beginning I walked 20-25km per day and felt absolutely
exhausted. I didn’t want to nap because I wanted to sleep all through the
night. But I went to bed early most nights so woke up early every morning, was
always too warm and had nightmares. I didn’t realise until half way through my
Camino that napping for an hour would ensure I slept right through to my alarm.
At 6am. Every day. I busted my left knee on day one going down a steep hill.
After that I had to rely on my right side, which with all the compensating,
meant that my right knee and hip hurt shortly after. My shoulders hurt for the
first two days but a friend helped me massage that out. My pack was light and I
only carried with me the bare essentials. I had an amazing checklist from
Amanda and received many compliments. Some packed too much and had to either
leave things behind, send them home or send them on ahead to the finish to wait
for them there. I have so much more stamina now because as the weeks went on I
was increasing the number of km walked. Towards the end we pulled some
incredibly long days, between 30-37km [sometimes because we didn’t think ahead
and had to in order to reach our target (of Santiago by Friday) on time].
I had a guidebook with me that outlined the terrain,
distances between towns and what each town contained. Most people used it as a
bible, only walking each day as far as the book dictated. I walked that way
initially because it was the most logical distance for my body but after a few
days the stages outlined in the guide crept up to 30km days, something I knew I
couldn’t do yet. So I broke it up into small stages, which meant losing pace
with a lot of people I’d come to enjoy walking with but it was the right thing
for me. And thankfully my closest friends did the same thing. There are 33
stages in the book and it is recommended that you incorporate at least 2 rest
days for yourself. I didn’t realise how much I needed one until I took it.
Lying in bed at 8am, having a long, hot shower and getting dressed in my cotton
top and thongs (flip-flops) and then just meandering around Leon felt
rejuvenating. I completed the walk from St. Jean to Santiago in 31 days,
including 1 rest day. Now, that was me. It doesn’t have to be anyone else. I
did push myself but it was a healthy challenge. Trust me, I am now resting like
never before. I’ve been home for a few days now and apart from the grocery shop
and one very important movie date with myself, I have not left the couch.
I used the guidebook as a diary for my reflections. It saved
on having to carry another book because everything you take with you, you
carry, and I didn’t want the extra weight. Each stage had quotes or extracts
from poems, some of them helped and I kept thinking back on them throughout the
day. Some like:
“If you can be happy with little then you have a lot to be
happy about.”
“Here inside me is a force that makes its own weather,
winning through thickest clouds to the shining sun.”
There was much debate amongst everyone that had seen the
film The Way, starring Martin Sheen as to whether the meaning and feeling of
the Camino had been captured or lost. I think that you can’t explain to someone
the Camino, because everyone walks it for different reasons. It’s impossible to
capture all of that and put it into one, Hollywood style film. It wasn’t a
documentary, those had been done before, it was a film. Love it or hate it, its
message for me was a strong one: You don’t choose a life, you live one.
Without telling you my deepest reflections, I know you all
genuinely care so here are a few thoughts I had along the way.
Walking out of Puente La Reina: I feel like I did the right
think in choosing to walk with these people (Tim, Wendy, Mel and Chunghee). I
like these pilgrims, we can laugh and walk slowly. I felt lethargic and most
sore walking into Estella, the miserable weather taking its tole on my spirit.
My soul feels brighter with the companionship of my Camino family. The
camaraderie has made me feel connected to the human energy here, everyone is
polite, happy, we’re all in pain somehow but show only joy. Bad knee and hips
and shoulders and things on the inside but only ever smiles and Holà’s and Buen
Camino! I need more. I’m addicted to this positive force.
In Viana: Can’t believe I’ve found someone like Alex, but
it’s hard knowing she doesn’t live anywhere near me. I know I always have a
place with her in Arizona and wherever I am, she can be too. I have a new
temptation to drive across the U.S., I haven’t really wanted to go before.
Every day the sound of church bells chime inside me, they keep me going. It’s a
small-town feeling that I’d like to take with me back to London, something I
hope I don’t forget when I’m being drowned out by airplanes. I’m charging my
phone, all ready to take more photos tomorrow in a vain attempt to capture the
moments I experience. The sunrise, walking in the dark then the rolling golden
fields. My body has almost healed, bring on tomorrow.
In Sanbol: My body needs a rest. My mind needs a rest. My
soul is excited and desperate for more.
I met a couple on my way, I can’t honestly remember which
country they’re from or what their first language is or even their names but
they spoke a little of English which helped us get by. The man had tied small
bells to his backpack and it was really nice to hear as we were walking along
dry, dusty gravel roads, it gave some character to the moment. Alex and I
passed them one day walking through a forested area and he and his wife told us
they believed that the forest held healing properties and they were cleansing
their auras with burning sage. They offered to cleanse ours and we let them.
Right there and then, we really accepted that if they believed it would help
us, then it would. I did feel lighter after that moment, even if it was for
just a few minutes. Thinking for hours on end is exhausting and maybe my aura
did need to be cleansed, it was a heavy burden I was carrying with me for so
long. I was finally learning how to process things and let it go.
On a lighter note, I just have to mention the pig. If that
was what it actually was. One night in Leon, the city was having a food
festival celebration – of sorts. They erected a marque in one of the piazzas
and sold market type food from stalls. I pointed at the massive wok in the back
and said I’d like some. Actually, I asked what it was first, and the lady
behind the counter who didn’t speak English typed something into her phone on
Google translate and showed us, it was “from the pig”. Uhuh sure ok, I said I’d
have a plate. She typed back that it was “large”. Righto, Alex and I would
share a plate then. Again, with everything in this country it came with bread
and that was the best part of the meal. Honestly. It was a dark brown mush that
left a bright yellow stain on the plate, it smelt funky and tasted, ah
interesting. I think Alex and I ate it just to soak up the alcohol we’d been
drinking. We have no idea what it was, just something from the pig, some part,
all parts probably. They were playing music over a loud speaker and Bed of
Roses came on by Bon Jovi so I started singing along. Alone. No one else knew
the song! Ok one girl, the other Aussie we were with that night but not the
Englishman, nor the American, Norwegian or the Irishman. I was just utterly disgusted.
So I belted out the rest of the song and it was followed by anther Bon Jovi
song, Always, so I belted that one out even louder. Was Bon Jovi only big in
Australia?! Crazy!
We all had a bit of alone time in Leon, which was just what
we all needed at that point. I think we had started getting on each other’s
nerves and spending 24/7 with the same people will do that. I sat in front of
the cathedral and scribbled some notes in my guide-book/journal:
It really is about the climb. Once you identify the hill,
the up is the hardest but most memorable part. You can look down at all that
you’ve conquered. And be proud. “You’re sure to do impossible things if you
follow your heart” has been stuck in my head for days now thanks to a sign that
read “Follow your heart” and the really catchy tune. (It’s a song from the film
Thumbelina). Walk your own camino. “Hold your own, know your name and go your
own way and everything will be fine.” So many nightmares, essentially one per
night, I ended up with what I needed. I’ve accepted the happiness of others and
that I can be happy for them. I slept soundly last night with my only dream a
happy one about holding onto a fast train, loving the experience and feeling
the wind in my hair. “Enough. Enough now.”
Santiago: I’ve made it, but my Camino doesn’t end here so it
doesn’t seem final. I had a moment when reaching the cathedral. Overheard a
lady say to me and Alex: “Well done, you’ve made it.” Thinking back, that’s
what made the day for me.
The next three days to Finisterre felt more special,
especially seeing the water for the first time. That was momentous; I could see
why pilgrims walked to the end of the Earth. We watched the sunset on the
rocks, and I thought that if I don’t do anything else, I’ve done this
incredible thing. It took walking the Camino to realise for myself that I love
how much I love, I love how much I’ve grown and I love how strong I really am.
Walking on to Muxia, a perfect ending to this part of the
journey. Here Alex, James and I wrote our very own 12 Days of Spain. Alex and I
met two men from Michigan who wrote their own lyrics to the Christmas Carol 12
Days of Christmas. So at the end of our journey in Spain, we wrote our own.
I’ll skip to the end.
On the 12th
day in Spain, the Camino gave to me…
12 painful blisters
11 pilgrim menus
(a typically 3 course meal of simple touristy type food for us, pilgrims)
10 cafes con leche
(coffee with milk)
9 hundred kilometres
(after walking from St. Jean Pied-de-Port to Santiago, then on to Finisterre
and then Muxia)
8 euro bunkbeds
7 walking sticks
6 daily food breaks
(we seriously did)
5 pilgrims! (I
walked most of the way with Alex, James, Drew and Andrèas)
4 donativos
(pilgrim hostel you donate as much as you want as the cost of a bed)
3 compostelas
(certificate you get upon reaching the end, we received one for reaching
Santiago, Finisterre and Muxia)
2 (too) many churches
(you have no idea how many. I have no idea how many)
And a tan only on our
left side! (walking only west)
Activities along the way included me learning all 50 states
of America, including the 3 territories and writing a homework list for Alex of
all the CLASSIC movies, tv shows and music artists she hasn’t seen or heard. I
was appalled by the lack of Bon Jovi.
So for all of you playing at home, these are the towns I
stayed in along the way.
St. Jean Pied-de-Port
Roncesvalles (The Spaniards don’t pronounce ‘LL’, instead
its like a ‘Y’ sound)
Zubiri
Pamplona
Puente La Reina
Estella
Los Arcos
Viana
Navarette
Santo Domingo
Belorado
Agés
Burgos
San Bol
Itero de la Vega
Villacázar de Sirga
Ledigos
Sahagún
Reliegos
León
Hospital de Órbigo
Gabino
Molinaseca
Villafranca del Bierzo
Herrerías
Triacastela
Barbadelo
Ventas de Narón
Ribadiso de Baixo
San Paio
Santiago
Negreira
Olveiroa
Finisterre
Lires
Muxia
I can’t write a packing list for you because everyone will
have different needs, some people will send packs ahead each day and some will
carry them so instead I’ll write a few “must have’s”
- - a rock from home. This symbolises your
struggles, pains, issues, the reason you’re walking, so many things, and you
leave it behind at the cross at Cruz de Ferro. You carry it with you and when
you leave it behind, feel lighter. I did.
- - Really good shoes. Walking shoes, hiking boots,
look just make sure you’ve worn them in and they’re somewhat waterproof because
it’ll rain or you’ll get wet in the puddles and wet feet mean more blisters and
a grumpy you. You’re in them most of the day, every day, for the entire length
of your Camino. They should have good tread, ankle support if you need, and
also consider insoles. I had to buy mine half way through as I wore down the
sole under my heels.
- - Blister prevention and treatment. You will get
blisters. Embrace this fact. Now, to minimise blister occurrence, there are
plenty of opinions and I can only tell you what I did. I only had blisters
under the two little toes on each foot. Wear two layers of socks, a sock liner
and then a hiking/walking sock. Merino wool and smart wool are the way to go.
Comfortable and quick dry. You can tape areas you think may blister as extra
prevention. Now if/when you get one, sterilise a needle, pop and drain, cover
with a Compeed (I had to put a Band-Aid around my toes to make sure the Compeed
stayed on). It should fall off on its own after about a week. You will be
blister-pros when you’re done.
- - You need a strong will to complete your Camino
in order to get you through. There will come a time when your alarm goes off at
6am, or you’re half way along a seemingly endless stretch of gravel road that
feels like death under your feet, or staring up at a massive hill, or you’re in
immense pain or you’re lonely in a crowd and you wonder why on Earth you
thought it was a good idea. Whenever that time comes, if it comes, you need to
think of that good reason you had that brought you to your Camino. Find that
spirit and keep going. Just put one foot in front of the other. Find strength
within yourself and just keep on keeping on.
But the Camino is never truly over. You never do stop
walking it. It is part of your every day and even now back home, I am keeping
the Camino spirit alive in me.
I’ll probably write more about the Camino in my next blog,
it’ll always come up, but if there’s something in particular you’d like to
know, leave a comment. I’d be more than happy to tell you about it.
Buen Camino.
