Buen Camino

Buen Camino.

Those two words meant so many things to me along the Camino and even now they resonate deep. Directly translated they mean ‘Good Way’ and they’re said to peregrinos (pilgrims) to wish them luck, good fortune, safe travels on their journey. It’ll take too long to make this a tutorial as to what the Camino is, and it’s too hard to explain. The best way to understand is to walk it yourself. You walk the camino for yourself, and no one else.

I have a friend, Amanda, who walked the Camino Frances from St. Jean Pied-de-Port to Santiago last year. It struck a chord with me, it sounded like something I was meant to do. Then once she first mentioned it I heard it everywhere and I knew I had to.

The Camino won’t give you what you want, it gives you what you need. You might not even realise what that is until it hits you in the face. Walking through the blazing sun with no shade, endless wheat fields with blisters and sore tendons I realised what my issue was. After that I didn’t have nightmares and I wasn’t scared. The people I met along the way helped me in so many ways in realising why I was really there and how best to overcome these problems. They each addressed different parts of me, helped bring out the good, test the bad, clear the haziness and show me the paths laid out in front of me.

Tim and Wendy. Mel. Kerry. Gina. Joe. Lucas. Neil. Pricilla and Casey. Rich and Joe. Cassandra. Ben (HOWQUA – his stage name, look him up). Chunghee. Drew. Andrèas. James.

Alex.

Alex deserves a whole blog to herself. I met her on day one, we came together after a week of walking and didn’t leave the other’s side. We laughed together, cried together, struggled up every hill and through every dull city-outskirts. She challenged my thinking, my heart, helped me push my body further. I would not be the person I am now at the end of it all without her. Her strength gave me strength. She also gave me gummy bears. Oh the Haribo bears were just so addictive, the best flavours being white and red but you’d always get a bag full of yellow. Yellow?! Who wants that much lemon? We’d keep a packet in our pocket and when we felt really low or grumpy we’d have one or two. On one occasion Alex felt so yuck that she ate half a packet, and then felt even worse. She was a lot faster than me that day and I found her lying on a bench trying to recover from her gummy bear OD. I learnt my lesson from seeing her like that.

Day One I was excited and scared for all that lay ahead. I was right to be scared, well, maybe not scared, no one died (it’s happened before, and people have become lost) but it was hard. Really hard. This is not just a walk.  Day one is over the Pyrenees and that day it was cold with strong winds, rain and even hail. I had to put my cap on to protect my head. I put on my long sleeve top and my rain jacket with the wind blowing it in every direction which didn’t help me and had to open up my backpack rain cover which I had never used before. All I could do was laugh. Stand there in the pouring rain absolutely drenched and laugh.

They say that the camino is broken up into 3 phases; body, mind and soul, and that the three regions of the walk represent those phases. From St. Jean to Burgos is loosely linked to challenging the body. Burgos to Leon, the Meseta, challenges the mind. From Leon onwards is for the soul/spirit.

I didn’t train for this. I decided to walk the Camino just a few months before I left so all my spare time was spent working overtime so I could go. Having said that, my body had been pushed beyond anything it had done before. In the beginning I walked 20-25km per day and felt absolutely exhausted. I didn’t want to nap because I wanted to sleep all through the night. But I went to bed early most nights so woke up early every morning, was always too warm and had nightmares. I didn’t realise until half way through my Camino that napping for an hour would ensure I slept right through to my alarm. At 6am. Every day. I busted my left knee on day one going down a steep hill. After that I had to rely on my right side, which with all the compensating, meant that my right knee and hip hurt shortly after. My shoulders hurt for the first two days but a friend helped me massage that out. My pack was light and I only carried with me the bare essentials. I had an amazing checklist from Amanda and received many compliments. Some packed too much and had to either leave things behind, send them home or send them on ahead to the finish to wait for them there. I have so much more stamina now because as the weeks went on I was increasing the number of km walked. Towards the end we pulled some incredibly long days, between 30-37km [sometimes because we didn’t think ahead and had to in order to reach our target (of Santiago by Friday) on time].

I had a guidebook with me that outlined the terrain, distances between towns and what each town contained. Most people used it as a bible, only walking each day as far as the book dictated. I walked that way initially because it was the most logical distance for my body but after a few days the stages outlined in the guide crept up to 30km days, something I knew I couldn’t do yet. So I broke it up into small stages, which meant losing pace with a lot of people I’d come to enjoy walking with but it was the right thing for me. And thankfully my closest friends did the same thing. There are 33 stages in the book and it is recommended that you incorporate at least 2 rest days for yourself. I didn’t realise how much I needed one until I took it. Lying in bed at 8am, having a long, hot shower and getting dressed in my cotton top and thongs (flip-flops) and then just meandering around Leon felt rejuvenating. I completed the walk from St. Jean to Santiago in 31 days, including 1 rest day. Now, that was me. It doesn’t have to be anyone else. I did push myself but it was a healthy challenge. Trust me, I am now resting like never before. I’ve been home for a few days now and apart from the grocery shop and one very important movie date with myself, I have not left the couch.

I used the guidebook as a diary for my reflections. It saved on having to carry another book because everything you take with you, you carry, and I didn’t want the extra weight. Each stage had quotes or extracts from poems, some of them helped and I kept thinking back on them throughout the day.  Some like:

“If you can be happy with little then you have a lot to be happy about.”

“Here inside me is a force that makes its own weather, winning through thickest clouds to the shining sun.”

There was much debate amongst everyone that had seen the film The Way, starring Martin Sheen as to whether the meaning and feeling of the Camino had been captured or lost. I think that you can’t explain to someone the Camino, because everyone walks it for different reasons. It’s impossible to capture all of that and put it into one, Hollywood style film. It wasn’t a documentary, those had been done before, it was a film. Love it or hate it, its message for me was a strong one: You don’t choose a life, you live one.  

Without telling you my deepest reflections, I know you all genuinely care so here are a few thoughts I had along the way.

Walking out of Puente La Reina: I feel like I did the right think in choosing to walk with these people (Tim, Wendy, Mel and Chunghee). I like these pilgrims, we can laugh and walk slowly. I felt lethargic and most sore walking into Estella, the miserable weather taking its tole on my spirit. My soul feels brighter with the companionship of my Camino family. The camaraderie has made me feel connected to the human energy here, everyone is polite, happy, we’re all in pain somehow but show only joy. Bad knee and hips and shoulders and things on the inside but only ever smiles and Holà’s and Buen Camino! I need more. I’m addicted to this positive force.

In Viana: Can’t believe I’ve found someone like Alex, but it’s hard knowing she doesn’t live anywhere near me. I know I always have a place with her in Arizona and wherever I am, she can be too. I have a new temptation to drive across the U.S., I haven’t really wanted to go before. Every day the sound of church bells chime inside me, they keep me going. It’s a small-town feeling that I’d like to take with me back to London, something I hope I don’t forget when I’m being drowned out by airplanes. I’m charging my phone, all ready to take more photos tomorrow in a vain attempt to capture the moments I experience. The sunrise, walking in the dark then the rolling golden fields. My body has almost healed, bring on tomorrow.

In Sanbol: My body needs a rest. My mind needs a rest. My soul is excited and desperate for more.

I met a couple on my way, I can’t honestly remember which country they’re from or what their first language is or even their names but they spoke a little of English which helped us get by. The man had tied small bells to his backpack and it was really nice to hear as we were walking along dry, dusty gravel roads, it gave some character to the moment. Alex and I passed them one day walking through a forested area and he and his wife told us they believed that the forest held healing properties and they were cleansing their auras with burning sage. They offered to cleanse ours and we let them. Right there and then, we really accepted that if they believed it would help us, then it would. I did feel lighter after that moment, even if it was for just a few minutes. Thinking for hours on end is exhausting and maybe my aura did need to be cleansed, it was a heavy burden I was carrying with me for so long. I was finally learning how to process things and let it go.

On a lighter note, I just have to mention the pig. If that was what it actually was. One night in Leon, the city was having a food festival celebration – of sorts. They erected a marque in one of the piazzas and sold market type food from stalls. I pointed at the massive wok in the back and said I’d like some. Actually, I asked what it was first, and the lady behind the counter who didn’t speak English typed something into her phone on Google translate and showed us, it was “from the pig”. Uhuh sure ok, I said I’d have a plate. She typed back that it was “large”. Righto, Alex and I would share a plate then. Again, with everything in this country it came with bread and that was the best part of the meal. Honestly. It was a dark brown mush that left a bright yellow stain on the plate, it smelt funky and tasted, ah interesting. I think Alex and I ate it just to soak up the alcohol we’d been drinking. We have no idea what it was, just something from the pig, some part, all parts probably. They were playing music over a loud speaker and Bed of Roses came on by Bon Jovi so I started singing along. Alone. No one else knew the song! Ok one girl, the other Aussie we were with that night but not the Englishman, nor the American, Norwegian or the Irishman. I was just utterly disgusted. So I belted out the rest of the song and it was followed by anther Bon Jovi song, Always, so I belted that one out even louder. Was Bon Jovi only big in Australia?! Crazy!

We all had a bit of alone time in Leon, which was just what we all needed at that point. I think we had started getting on each other’s nerves and spending 24/7 with the same people will do that. I sat in front of the cathedral and scribbled some notes in my guide-book/journal:

It really is about the climb. Once you identify the hill, the up is the hardest but most memorable part. You can look down at all that you’ve conquered. And be proud. “You’re sure to do impossible things if you follow your heart” has been stuck in my head for days now thanks to a sign that read “Follow your heart” and the really catchy tune. (It’s a song from the film Thumbelina). Walk your own camino. “Hold your own, know your name and go your own way and everything will be fine.” So many nightmares, essentially one per night, I ended up with what I needed. I’ve accepted the happiness of others and that I can be happy for them. I slept soundly last night with my only dream a happy one about holding onto a fast train, loving the experience and feeling the wind in my hair. “Enough. Enough now.”

Santiago: I’ve made it, but my Camino doesn’t end here so it doesn’t seem final. I had a moment when reaching the cathedral. Overheard a lady say to me and Alex: “Well done, you’ve made it.” Thinking back, that’s what made the day for me.

The next three days to Finisterre felt more special, especially seeing the water for the first time. That was momentous; I could see why pilgrims walked to the end of the Earth. We watched the sunset on the rocks, and I thought that if I don’t do anything else, I’ve done this incredible thing. It took walking the Camino to realise for myself that I love how much I love, I love how much I’ve grown and I love how strong I really am.

Walking on to Muxia, a perfect ending to this part of the journey. Here Alex, James and I wrote our very own 12 Days of Spain. Alex and I met two men from Michigan who wrote their own lyrics to the Christmas Carol 12 Days of Christmas. So at the end of our journey in Spain, we wrote our own. I’ll skip to the end.

On the 12^th day in Spain, the Camino gave to me…

12 painful blisters

11 pilgrim menus (a typically 3 course meal of simple touristy type food for us, pilgrims)

10 cafes con leche (coffee with milk)

9 hundred kilometres (after walking from St. Jean Pied-de-Port to Santiago, then on to Finisterre and then Muxia)

8 euro bunkbeds

7 walking sticks

6 daily food breaks (we seriously did)

5 pilgrims! (I walked most of the way with Alex, James, Drew and Andrèas)

4 donativos (pilgrim hostel you donate as much as you want as the cost of a bed)

3 compostelas (certificate you get upon reaching the end, we received one for reaching Santiago, Finisterre and Muxia)

2 (too) many churches (you have no idea how many. I have no idea how many)

And a tan only on our left side! (walking only west)

Activities along the way included me learning all 50 states of America, including the 3 territories and writing a homework list for Alex of all the CLASSIC movies, tv shows and music artists she hasn’t seen or heard. I was appalled by the lack of Bon Jovi.

So for all of you playing at home, these are the towns I stayed in along the way.

St. Jean Pied-de-Port

Roncesvalles (The Spaniards don’t pronounce ‘LL’, instead its like a ‘Y’ sound)

Zubiri

Pamplona

Puente La Reina

Estella

Los Arcos

Viana

Navarette

Santo Domingo

Belorado

Agés

Burgos

San Bol

Itero de la Vega

Villacázar de Sirga

Ledigos

Sahagún

Reliegos

León

Hospital de Órbigo

Gabino

Molinaseca

Villafranca del Bierzo

Herrerías

Triacastela

Barbadelo

Ventas de Narón

Ribadiso de Baixo

San Paio

Santiago

Negreira

Olveiroa

Finisterre

Lires

Muxia

I can’t write a packing list for you because everyone will have different needs, some people will send packs ahead each day and some will carry them so instead I’ll write a few “must have’s”

-       - a rock from home. This symbolises your struggles, pains, issues, the reason you’re walking, so many things, and you leave it behind at the cross at Cruz de Ferro. You carry it with you and when you leave it behind, feel lighter. I did.

-       - Really good shoes. Walking shoes, hiking boots, look just make sure you’ve worn them in and they’re somewhat waterproof because it’ll rain or you’ll get wet in the puddles and wet feet mean more blisters and a grumpy you. You’re in them most of the day, every day, for the entire length of your Camino. They should have good tread, ankle support if you need, and also consider insoles. I had to buy mine half way through as I wore down the sole under my heels.

-       - Blister prevention and treatment. You will get blisters. Embrace this fact. Now, to minimise blister occurrence, there are plenty of opinions and I can only tell you what I did. I only had blisters under the two little toes on each foot. Wear two layers of socks, a sock liner and then a hiking/walking sock. Merino wool and smart wool are the way to go. Comfortable and quick dry. You can tape areas you think may blister as extra prevention. Now if/when you get one, sterilise a needle, pop and drain, cover with a Compeed (I had to put a Band-Aid around my toes to make sure the Compeed stayed on). It should fall off on its own after about a week. You will be blister-pros when you’re done.

-       - You need a strong will to complete your Camino in order to get you through. There will come a time when your alarm goes off at 6am, or you’re half way along a seemingly endless stretch of gravel road that feels like death under your feet, or staring up at a massive hill, or you’re in immense pain or you’re lonely in a crowd and you wonder why on Earth you thought it was a good idea. Whenever that time comes, if it comes, you need to think of that good reason you had that brought you to your Camino. Find that spirit and keep going. Just put one foot in front of the other. Find strength within yourself and just keep on keeping on.

But the Camino is never truly over. You never do stop walking it. It is part of your every day and even now back home, I am keeping the Camino spirit alive in me.

I’ll probably write more about the Camino in my next blog, it’ll always come up, but if there’s something in particular you’d like to know, leave a comment. I’d be more than happy to tell you about it.

Buen Camino.